LEDs. Were We Lied To?

 Many years ago, 10 actually from the writing of this post, I wrote a brief on the cost of LED vs Incandescent Light Bulbs. The odd thing is that LEDs have not been lasting the 25k hours. In fact, some have lasted less than even the Incandescent counterparts.  Energy costs haven't gone anywhere either, in fact, they've increased. Even using LED bulbs, swapping everything to LED, changing to Energy Efficient fixtures, etc. It hasn't really made much of a change in energy costs, and many times it has increased. Especially with the added cost of these being more expensive products overall.

Which begs the question.

Were we lied to?

The short answer is. Yes. Obviously.

But it's a lot deeper than that. They (Energy Minister) suggests that it's the "aging" infrastructure that is to blame, which is adding costs, such as the "delivery" charge, which is what is the portion that is supposed to go towards upkeep, maintenance, and upgrades of the electrical infrastructure. 
And does it? Hard to say, especially when you consider that many times the CEO of these Power Generation companies are making multi-millions, but that's a topic for another discussion.
I find it hard to believe that it's aging infrastructure, more than it's buying into technologies

that are not really all that they've cracked up to be. 
Wind Turbines are great, for the average person to have one, as a sole means of backup energy capture (Electricity Production), so they can power things off grid, reducing their overall cost on Electricity, but as a means of power production for a large mass of people, it's silly.  You're taking a backup means of generation, and attempting to make it the primary means, that's just asking for trouble. Same with Solar. The sun does not always shine, and the wind does not always blow, therefore they should never be considered as main power generation systems. Why would they be? That's basically the same idea of putting the horse behind the carriage. 
It works great on a Porsche, having the engine in the rear, but doesn't help when the horse cannot see where they're going.
And honestly, they're not even really backup power, as they're more along the lines of ... Supplemental Power Generation. Sort of like having batteries in a car. It sounds like a good idea, until it's put into actual practice. Then it makes no sense at all.
Batteries are great as a method of storing generated power when there's low usage, and returning it back to handle any spikes, helping the grid cope when it needs to ramp up power generation. Batteries are also great in small handheld devices, like cell phones, cordless drills, impact drivers, and laptop computers. They also make sense to help clean up DC power production, as you can use a AC/DC inverter, run it thru a battery to help clean the voltage into a steady, true DC voltage, and run DC loads off it, such as electronics, without damaging interference.

If you consider how an AC Sine Wave works, you have a "Positive" voltage, followed by a "Negative" voltage, 60 times a second (or 50 in other parts of the world). This cannot work as a DC voltage, as DC requires constant, direct voltage, in one direction, no spikes, no dips, or you get interference, or outright damage to the electronic components. 
Consider your car, for instance. You have an Alternator, which is a generator, and it recharges the battery. However, it being an alternator, creates an 'alternating' voltage/current, meaning it's creating AC electricity.  By running it thru a couple gates, and capacitors, and you get a DC voltage, however it is not a constant DC voltage, so by running it thru a battery, it's able to remove the voltage sags, and give constant DC voltage.

We're being told this is all for "Green" Net-ZERO, and that it's for the planet, with CO2 reduction in mind. How much CO2 are we reducing? 0.04% of our atmosphere is CO2.. 100 Million years ago there were 5x to 10x the concentration of CO2 in the air, the planet was a lot warmer, meaning there were no polar ice caps, and the largest, most successful animals, existed, and walked the Earth. 
The land was fertile from pole to pole due to the temperature, and CO2 content in the air.
Us paying more, many having to decide whether to buy groceries, or pay rent, feeling like they're in over their heads more, never able to get ahead at all, is not going to reduce any kind of CO2 footprint.

A Conflict of interest?

No, I was a pretty early adopter of Electric Battery powered equipment, such as an E-Bike in 2014, and then we got a Battery Operated Snowblower in 2015, followed by a Battery Powered Lawnmower in 2017, alongside a battery powered weed trimmer, so I have done the whole battery crap already.  The one thing that I think works well as a battery operated tool, is the weed trimmer. It has plenty of power, less vibration, and is overall lighter than a gas powered trimmer.  But, I find that the trimmer line is less robust, as it's often a thinner gauge than on their gas powered counterparts, plus the battery will not last anywhere close to what a gas engine will, when maintained. 

What was your experience with the Battery Powered Lawnmower?

Honestly, I enjoyed using it. I found it to be a great little unit when using it for a small lawn.  My original reason for getting a battery operated lawnmower was because, 1. it was easier to operate for my wife, who enjoyed cutting the lawn, as she enjoyed the sunshine, and 2. The gasoline powered mower I was using, failed. The person I took it to that said he could fix it, simply couldn't. I figured if he couldn't fix it, then who the heck else could? It was before I had started to learn and take an interest in small engines. It was definitely easier to start, tho.

But that's when I started to find the problems with my mower. It wasn't a Greenworks lawnmower, it was a SunJoe, however insert whatever brand you want, and
you'll get a similar result. The body was made of plastic, certain questionable parts were made out of plastic, and many times they were non-serviceable parts.
The blade adapter on the SunJoe mower was entirely non-serviceable, and if it broke, the entire lawnmower is now junk.
The first issue I had, was the body flexed. It surprised me when I saw it the first time. I was mowing along my fence line, and pushed a bit against the fence, which caused the body to flex. That's when I heard the sound of a quickly spinning blade coming into contact with the body of the mower. That surprised me. I shut it off, and inspected the damage. I found a few chunks missing on the underside of the deck, which you can see in this video.

Next was the tiny bagger on it.  It would fill quite quickly, and when that would happen the motor would easily bog down on even slightly tall grass, which no gas mower would even falter. This is where the second issue is that I had with it. Completely lack of power. It would bog down in grass that may have been ignored for a week or two extra, often causing the overload to cut it out of action. How ridiculous is that? 
The benefit that I found, being lightweight enough that my wife used to be the one who enjoyed mowing the lawn, to her complaining it would cut out when she went over slightly longer grass.  She used to use our old Gasoline powered mower, and never had it bog down once going over any grass.

Now EGO is another lawnmower brand out there making grand promises, such as "The First Lawnmower to be as powerful as a gasoline mower!"

Yeah, I could see that, if it has a powerful enough motor, but then will need the battery to match, which can be quite expensive.  And this is where the EGO mower starts to fall flat. Sure, they are powerful, but the batteries are questionable. With batteries actually being the weakest point of these lawnmowers, which begs the question. How green could these mowers actually be? 
Many lawnmowers I come across to repair are in the range of 10-20 years old, with some being older than 40 years old.  The minor little repairs I do, and they're good for another half dozen, or more, seasons, especially if they're maintained.  
Most Battery operated lawnmower batteries often cost several hundred dollars to replace, which can easily be more than the break point on even replacing the battery, which is often what a lot of people do. They sell the mower, as is, without the battery, having bought a new mower with a battery.

How is that environmental? When I find a non-running gasoline powered mower, it's simple to get going, and will often cost someone less than a 1/3rd of a replacement battery.

What other considerations do you have about battery operated equipment?

Battery operated equipment isn't terrible, honestly. For the average person, with the average lawn, they're okay to have.   There is a risk of fire, especially on the cheaper batteries, considering they'll be built to a lower price point.
This should be avoided, but as I said before about rising prices, people will choose the option that doesn't hit the pocket book as much.

What about used battery powered equipment?

I would have to say that Used Battery equipment is a gamble. You often cannot really test the life of the battery, until it's too late. Many times Lithium batteries will work, until they don't, and when they no longer hold a charge, it's quite sudden.
Or the battery could last several years, but then you're still stuck in the same boat. The battery replacement, if it's still available, will be more costly than just buying a new unit, that has more options.
Sound familiar with EV cars?

What is the difference, then, with gasoline powered equipment?

This is where it's interesting. Many of the older parts are actually readily available, as the design sometimes simply hasn't changed. The Briggs Flathead 3hp engine has been basically the same design for, gotta be going on 50 years. It's a solid engine, and well designed, however it's no longer manufactured, as they've moved onto OHV engines, due to emissions standards.

Often gasoline powered equipment can easily be repaired, unless there has been catastrophic failure. However the parts could easily be used on a similar model that may need less work to get going again.

Considering all this, what would you suggest?

Honestly, it's hard to say. LEDs are definitely going to be less expensive to operate than their INCANDESCENT counterparts, just on energy consumption alone, and they've become so inexpensive that they're often sold in small packs at the dollar store.
So thru consumerism, they are often less expensive overall, although the bulbs are now filling up the landfills as well, as it's often the drivers that fail on the bulbs, due to inadequate ventilation.

However with gasoline powered equipment, vs battery powered. I would say that older gasoline powered equipment will easily outlast any modern battery operated equipment, hands down, and does not even come close to posing the same fire risk. Sure, gasoline is flammable, but can easily be extinguished, and contained. Lithium Ion fires easily burn far out of control quicker, and more aggressively, with much hotter temperatures.
I would steer clear of buying new in general, and definitely avoid buying battery operated equipment used.  older, well maintained gasoline engines will last a very long time, as they are very simple machines overall.

Moving forward, I can see battery powered lawn equipment becoming more prevalent, with gasoline equipment seeing a drop, for a bit, then a surge as people find the replacement of a battery just isn't worth the cost.

Until next time...

Chat soon

The True Cost of Incandescent VS LED

Ever wondered if it is truly cheaper to go LED over Incandescent bulbs?
Lets do a little bit of everyone's favorite subject...
MATH.

The average Incandescent light bulb will usually last around 5000 hours on average (yes some last a bit longer and many last far less)..

So to get what one 60W light bulb costs we take 1000 watts and divide it by 60 to get how many hours it takes for this bulb to reach 1 KW/h.

1000/60 is 16.6 (so lets say 17 for argument's sake)
This means that it takes about 17 hours of burn time for 1 KW/h for a 60W light bulb.

So now we'll take 5000/17 to get the total amount of KW/hs for the life of this bulb..

That's 294 KW/hs...

Average cost is about $0.115 per KW/h..

That works out to be... $34.00 over the life of the bulb.

Now add about $1.00 for the cost of that bulb and you have $35.00 for the entire cost of the life of the bulb.  That 60W light bulb has now cost you $35.00 over the span of 5000 hours.

 I know what you're asking'

Aren't LED bulbs really expensive?

Well, initially they seem to be a little on the high side, I agree.  I mean, $10.00/bulb over the cost of $4.00 for a 4 pack of Incandescents..

Except that's not exactly true.  That $10.00 bulb will last 5x longer than the average Incandescent bulb.
Lets do the exact same math to find out what that bulb will cost over its life.

So we'll take 1000/10 = 100...
Already it's looking better.  This bulb takes 100 hours of burn time to burn through 1 KW/h..

Alright, and the average lifespan of these bulbs is around 25000 hours, which is 5 times the average lifespan of a typical Incandescent bulb.

Okay, so we take that 25000 hour life and divide it by 100.  That's 250 KW/hs over its lifespan.
Over that time at $0.115KW/h it'll cost about $29.00 to run that light.
I know what you're saying...

That's a total of $39.00 for the total cost of the bulb!!!!

Okay, sure, but lets look at it this way.. Divide that $39.00 by 5. Why?  Simple, the bulb lasted 5x longer than the incandescent.  So in 5000 hours the total cost of operating that bulb has now been about $8.00 including the cost of the bulb considering you are now having to shell out to replace that 60W light bulb that just burned out..

So take a look at that light fixture hanging over your dining room table with 5 or 6 60W light bulbs in it.  Yes, it looks lovely!  But imagine in 5000 hours that fixture has just cost you $170!

Change those to LED and in 5000 it'll cost you $40.00..
That's a saving of $130!  How many other light bulbs do you have in your house?

It's pretty incredible that a LED bulb can really save you that much money in the long run.  Don't forget that if you want to save money you might have to dole out a bit of cash from the start.

The basic rules for shopping for LED bulbs is this;

Highest amount of Lumens
Lowest amount of watts.

The higher the LUMEN count on the lower the wattage the better the saving in your pocket!
Lumens is the measurement of light.  The average 60W incandescent light bulb gives off approximately 800 Lumens.   So to make a direct replacement of a 60W incandescent for a LED bulb, find one that gives off between 750 and 900 lumens.  Also try to find a bulb that is no higher than 11W.  11W for a LED as a 60W incandescent replacement is a little high, considering you can easily find ones that are 8-10 watts giving out 800+ lumens.

The other key is colour temperature.  Measured in degrees Kelvin, a incandescent bulb is around 2700K.

2700K is a very very warm colour, in the yellow/orange light spectrum, but is the colour we all associate with... home..

3000K is a bit whiter, and similar to the colour of Halogen lamps.

4000K is a lot whiter and similar to offices and schools

5000K is classified as Natural Sunshine.  Light that is streaming in through a window is around 5000K and is a very beautiful colour when used in the right context.  However it is very white, and you will most likely not want this in a bedroom, dining room or living room.  They are good for a kitchen or a bathroom, but the colour can feel a bit harsh.

6500K is classified as DAYLIGHT.  If you are standing in the sun when it is at its zenith you are at 6500K colour temperature, which is into the blue-side of the colour spectrum.  I have not seen a single LED bulb at this colour for sale that wasn't a specialty bulb, but I thought I'd at least mention the colour.

So there you have it.  It may seem like you're dishing out a bit of money at the start for LEDs but for that money you put out initially, you are saving in the long run!

Yes my entire house (save for about 5 fixtures) is LED.  The 5 other fixtures are.. 1 Incandescent and 4 fluorescent 4' T8 tubes.  The fluorescent tubes will soon be replaced with LED tubes instead....

Until next time....

The Hidden Dangers of Compact Fluorescents

Compact fluorescent bulbs are probably the worst "green initiative" product that has ever been forced upon us all.  In Canada and the USA they have been heralded as the wonder-product to replace Incandescent light bulbs.  The Energy saving light bulb for the future!
Lasting 10 years or more giving a warm and beautiful light similar to incandescent.  What a total load of (pardon the language) horse shit! I have foretold nothing but problems with Compact Fluorescent bulbs from their inception.  I recoiled from them in horror that they were the "Green Initiative" product for the future.  In the UK they are shunned upon and the retailers are forced to have recycling programs with the recycling fee built into the price of the bulb.
In North America (at least Canada) there has been little, if any, education on these products.

Compact Fluorescent and Circular Fluorescent Tube

Everyone knows the Compact Fluorescent lightbulb.  The spiral with the self-ballasted base.
There are also the other style that uses a round tube that connects to the ballast via a 4 pin socket which is a completely replaceable bulb.  They aren't very expensive, and convenient that you can replace them without replacing the ballast as well, but again, that's not the issue here.

The one problem is actually not the light they produce, or the amount of energy they use, or in the case of the CFL, save.  They use a small amount of energy to produce an incredible amount of light.
When you used to buy the old Incandescent light bulbs you'd look at the bulb and say, "Oh I need a 60W light bulb, or a 40W light bulb, or even possibly a 100W light bulb."  But in today's world that's no longer true.  In fact, it never should have been.  Today, as always, light is measured and always has been measured, in Flux Lumens.  A lumen is a measurement of visible light produced from a source, such as a candle, or a light bulb.  The average 60W Incandescent tungsten filament light bulb produced between 600 and 850 lumens of light.  A 17W Compact Fluorescent light bulb produces the same amount of light output.
A 100W light bulb is around 1000 to 1200 Flux Lumens, and a 23W CFL produces the same amount. That is why the packaging still says, "60 Watt Replacement only using 17 Watts".  That sounds great doesn't it?
But lets dig a little deeper into what else the packaging says;

One - Do Not Use Outdoors

Well that's interesting.  Why not?  Well it's actually very simple.  Fluorescent lamps are not designed for cold temperatures. In fact, anything below 2°C (35.6°F) is not good for a Fluorescent lamp as it will cause the light to not reach its full potential light output and will even reduce the lifespan of the light.  Incandescent lamp for the win.  Because Incandescent uses a Tungsten filament that arks electricity and heats up by resistance, it is not affected by colder temperatures.  In fact, colder temperatures sometimes actually help the lamp by dissipating the heat away from the bulb.
Ever wondered why the CFL bulb outside seems to have a faded amount of light coming out of it?  Yes, the cold is causing it to produce less than its rated Lumen output.

Two - Do Not Use With Dimmers

Wait?  No dimmers?  That's not good.  So I am stuck using this lamp at its full intensity even when I want to have a subdued light?  Yup!  Go ahead, throw it on a dimmer and watch the lamp flicker and sputter.  You can get Dimmable CFLs but they do not work the same.  Sure, they can dim, but I've seen many start to dim, then begin to flicker and sputter as well.  NOT what I'd call a very good way of dimming at all!
Another win for Incandescents.

Three - Do Not Use In Damp Locations

Alright, this should be a no brainer!  Not even Incandescents can you use in a damp location.  However, people do.  I have seen many CFLs in damp locations, completely exposed to the moisture.  That's not a good idea!  They are not

The Tungsten Incandescent Lightbulb

intended for getting wet!

Four - The symbol Hg means this product contains Mercury.  Please dispose of properly in accordance to state laws.

Wait... Mercury??  As in that liquid metal you found in old thermometers?  Actually, worse.  That metal is really bad and highly toxic, but in CFLs and other Fluorescent products (Tubes and other various lamps) it is in VAPOUR form. The Mercury is how the lamp makes light.  However an Incandescent bulb uses Tungsten for the filament, and Tungsten is mildly radioactive.  Don't worry, it's less than the background radiation that is present all around you all the time!

So lets see...

It's not supposed to be used outdoors... Not on dimmers.. Not in damp locations... And CONTAINS MERCURY?!

So far I am still not seeing the great deal in these lights.  Sure they use less energy to produce a fair amount of light, but at what cost?

Here's the problem I have found in my own experience with any and all fluorescent lighting.  For one, when the bulb reaches its end of light, it'll actually rupture... 

End of Life CFL Rupture

As you can see, there is a tiny hole in the lamp here.  This I have witnessed countless times when replacing CFL lamps in homes and businesses.  In fact, I always bring this to the immediate attention of the home/business owner and immediately explain what has happened.
Here I will explain it to everyone.  This hole will allow the remaining Mercury Vapour to escape from the bulb and into the air of your home/office/room/apartment.  This mercury vapour is extremely toxic and hazardous to your health.  Mercury poisoning is something that we all must be aware of and to watch out for the symptoms of.  I am always monitoring myself for these symptoms, as I work a lot with Fluorescent light bulbs.  Honestly, Mercury Poisoning scares me more than high voltage electricity!
At least with electricity, I can protect myself from it by wearing proper PPE (Personal Protective Equipment).  A broken Fluorescent light bulb, however?  Mercury vapour gets out into the air we breathe.
The sad thing here is that I also see many Fluorescent tubes (you know the ones I'm talking about) in offices, schools and even in homes that have burned out that have similar holes and ruptures!  They burn out and that mercury gas escapes.

So now that you are aware of these small facts of Fluorescent light bulbs and with the government forcing a ban on the importation and sale of Incandescent light bulbs in excess of 60 Watts (and soon 40 Watts), you wonder... What other choice is there?

Well, that's where these come in..

LED GU-10 LED A19 LED GU-16 Base Par16

LED light bulbs.  These are the future as it stands now.  At least until the invention of non-energy luminescence, which lets face it, is probably a long long long way off.

LED technology is actually quite old.  LEDs have been around for a very long time,
Do you remember the old stereos with the light bar that would light up the louder the music was?  Those are LEDs.  Clock Radios, well guess what. LEDs..
That DSL/Cable Modem of yours uses LED indicator lights.
That technology has been expanded upon to bring us the lighting technology of the future!  LED bulbs!

These are incredibly good!  You can get these in pretty much any colour you want, use miniscule amounts of energy and produce tremendous amounts of light!  The middle bulb in the above photo is a A19 E26 Medium Base 9.5W (yes 9.5W) 2700K (colour temperature similar to a Incandescent light bulb) LED bulb.  It produces 810 Flux Lumens of light which means it creates almost 86 lumens per Watt.  If you imagine a 60W light bulb produces 810 Flux Lumens, it creates only 13 Lumens per Watt..  That is not very efficient!

Also, LED lamps will last you a long long long time.  We're talking into the next decade before it reaches its end of life.
The average LED bulb today is rated to last between 25K to 40K hours.
The way an LED light fails is actually pretty simple.  When the bulb reaches end of life the light output slowly dims, and eventually the bulb fails entirely.  Yes there are ones that will end up blinking when they reach end of their life, but most times they will dim to around 70% of their lumen output before failure.
There is no harmful chemicals in LED bulbs, nor is there any need to wear a hazmat suit if you drop one.  I have dropped many of them and most often than not, they bounce or just land flat on the ground.
You see, LED bulbs are usually made entirely of plastic and metal.  The Metal is usually the ballast surround (yes it uses a ballast) and the dome protecting the LEDs is usually plastic, however there are some that use GLASS to cover the LED which is either frosted or clear.  Frosted gives a much softer light than clear, which is more designed for spot lighting than flood lighting.
Incandescent E26 A19 replacement bulbs more often than not are frosted to give a warm soft glow vs a spot lighting.

The image I posted above has both an A19 E26 Medium Base (known as the Edison Screw Base) that replaces the typical A19 light bulb.  These are used everywhere you can imagine. Table lamps, desk lamps, hanging fixtures and more.
The GU-10 lamps are more of a spot lamp and are used in Track Lighting, Pot-Lights, very very few desk lamps and accent lighting.  The GU-10 is very similar (identical) to the MR16 which is also used in similar scenarios.  The big difference between a GU-10 and a MR16 is that GU-10s have a built in step-down voltage transformer.  In fact, all LED lamps have this other than MR16s.  LEDs are low-voltage and use no more than 12v for the light, which is why they have a ballast.  A LED will short and burn out instantly at line voltage (120v or greater).
This is also why they do not generate a lot of heat. In fact, leave a 9Watt LED bulb on all day then remove it in from the fixture, and it is very warm to the touch, as all electrical things do generate heat, but compared to the 60W light bulb it replaces, you'll be able to remove it with your bare hand with no discomfort at all.
Other lights, such as the Par-38 lights, or LEDs of higher wattage (20+ watts) which produce incredible amounts of light, will get warm to the point that you'll find a tiny bit of discomfort when unscrewing them, but nothing compared to the heat of the lamps they replace.

CFL bulbs get immensely hot as the ballast has to step up the line voltage to 600v!  Yes, 600 Volts!  Fluorescent lights require a very high voltage to ignite the Mercury to 'burn' and create light.
There is a huge difference, right?  600v is extremely dangerously high voltage, while 12v is the same voltage as a car battery.
Ever stick your tongue on a 9v battery?  12v isn't significantly higher than that..

Here is one other problem I have seen time and time and time again with CFL bulbs, and this has been reported many times!
They can catch fire!  I have seen this first hand, and I am sure you have too.  Maybe not so much them catching fire, but definitely the charred marks around where the glass bulb attaches to the ballast.
Almost every single CFL bulb I have replaced after burning out is either very charred, like this, or mildly charred (dark browning of the base) compared to the bright white it was when it was originally installed.  This is something that has been reported on by many news outlets in the world happening.  However many of the problems is mostly blamed on "GLOBE" light bulbs, which is a manufacturer in China.  Snopes.com is a great place to find out very good information regarding claims that are either true, or false...

Now I'm not trying to scare anyone regarding these bulbs, but I want you to be as informed as possible.  For one, do not buy GLOBE CFL bulbs if you are going to buy any CFL bulbs.  Why?  Simple, they are very poorly made.  You get what you pay for after all.  The cheap bulbs = cheap construction, and can easily be problems down the road!
Incandescent bulbs have caused more fires than any CFL bulb.  Incandescent Christmas Tree lights?  Anyone remember those?  They are notorious for igniting up dry trees. Dust falling onto an incandescent bulb that has sat for many days/weeks without being turned on, and poof!  You get a whole lot of smoke from them.  Halogen bulbs are another one that has caused fires, which is why they are usually plastered with "FIRE WARNINGS" on the lamp.  "Keep Lamp Clear of Dust" "Do Not Place Lamp Near Combustible Materials" etc...  Incandescent lamps follow the same warnings.

In fact, almost all lights will follow the exact same warnings!

All lights when used properly will give you safe and clean light every time.  Be smart on where you put your lights, and remember, when you clean your living space, remember to clean any dust off those old Incandescent and Halogen lamps.
Or better yet?  Replace them.  Halogen Spot Lights can be replaced by LED lamps which produce very little heat in comparison, last much longer and even work fantastic outdoors.  In fact some LEDs are rated down to -45°C!  

 While at work I decided to take a look at some of the failed fluorescent lamps.. Here is a few of them.

Notice the "Sylvania" branding on them.  These are not cheap Gray market imports, but Sylvania products.

I know what you're saying.. That Sylvania U-Bend Fluorescent is broken. 
You aren't incorrect in saying that, but have you ever broken a Fluorescent lamp?  Because they are under pressure, they explode!  This is a clean break meaning that it was not under any pressure at all.  Take a closer look.  You'll see a rupture mark where the glass cracked releasing the leftover Mercury Vapour that had not been burned up before the bulb failed.  It was after when this bulb was removed from the fixture that the bulb cracked further.
Then the Sylvania Push In CFL bulb.  It has separated from the ballast!
Finally the CFL bulb (Spiral).  It is a "Marathon" branded CFL and as you can see the ballast has burned and the bulb has fractured.  This sort of thing I find really upsetting.  
If you or I approached the government with a product that contained as much mercury as Fluorescent bulbs they'd fail our product and condemn it, yet here is a product that is a complete nuisance!  It is toxic, it is dangerous.  It truly is a step backward instead of forward!  
You'd think that because the program I am working with (Energy Efficient Upgrades) I'd be all for Fluorescent lighting, as I am 'upgrading' old dated T-12 lamps to the more efficient T-8 lamps.  But I'm not.. I'm condemning the program for being so short sighted!
When there are LED tubes that can work in all Fluorescent fixtures which will contain absolutely 0% Mercury and 0% Lead, I don't understand why they are promoting Fluorescent over LED.

However I will give them credit where credit is due.  The old program when replacing A19, GU-10, MR16, PAR Halogen lamps, etc was done with a CFL equivalent (or in the case of the GU-10s and MR16s a lower wattage Halogen) they are now being replaced with a LED counterpart.  I am very happy for that!  

Thankfully today the Canadian Government has started to phase out the CFL light bulb and is trying to get education programs in place to let Canadians know that these are toxic and dangerous to the environment.  
With the current landfill crisis we are having with people just throwing their bulbs in the garbage due to lack of education on them, there is a serious issue with Mercury in our landfill sites.
This is very bad for the environment that they were trying to 'save' with the roll out of the CFL bulb program.

Now before you get all worried about these CFLs that you have in operation providing you light, or those Incandescents that you have.
Use them and use them properly.  When they fail, dispose of them properly.  Those CFL bulbs should be taken out when cool using dish-gloves (just in case) and wrapped in a brown paper bag.  After that take it to your nearest Hazardous Waste Depot or Fluorescent lamp recycler (Canadian Tire, Home Depot, Rona) and drop it off there carefully.
Incandescents can go into your recycling bin for recycling of the glass and metal.

But instead of making another purchase of a CFL bulb, seriously consider the LEDs.  Yes, I know they are not inexpensive, but consider this.  They will seriously save you money in the long run.

With LEDs the key is to get the bulb that provides you with the most amount of Lumens for the least amount of Wattage.  The higher the Lumen count, the brighter the bulb.  Also watch for colour temperature.  Halogen bulbs are around 3000K while the Tungsten lights are around 2700K.  For Daylight (5000K) you'll find it very very white, and is good for kitchens and bathrooms where you need that light...

As your lights burn out, replace them with LED bulbs.  They are getting better and better every day!  Philips brand bulbs have a wonder "FLAT" type LED A-19 that provides 360° light output, which is really good.  

Either way, just be conscious of the products you use and what they contain. 

CFLs were a great stepping stone into the age of energy savings.  They introduced a whole new way of thinking when it came to lighting, and provided many homes with a brighter light for significantly lower energy consumption.  
Regardless of the problems that CFL bulbs have brought with them, they have entirely changed the thought of consumers on energy consumption and how to save money.
Lights are one of the largest consumers of electricity.   Yes there are other items that use large amounts of electricity but they are not used continuously for as many hours as the lowly lightbulb is.


Be Energy Smart... Recycle... Reuse what you can.. and always, be conservative.  We don't leave the planet for our children, we are borrowing it from them.  So let them have a world that is what we wish we grew up with..
A clean planet.. A beautiful planet..

Until next time..